Candy Cane Coral: Caulastrea furcata, a great beginner LPS coral species

Candy cane coral is an LPS coral (large polyp stony coral) species that is great for beginner and intermediate reef tanks. While some LPS corals are aggressive and have large, stinging sweeper tentacles, this attractive coral species is mild-mannered and has very short sweeper tentacles by comparison. As a result, it can be kept relatively closer to other peaceful coral species without causing problems, though some caution is still warranted (see placement section below).

A healthy candy cane coral colony (say that tongue-twister 5 times in a row) will create additional branches as it grows.

A cluster of Candy cane corals creates branches as it grows

They are considered to be large polyp stony corals. The bases of the branches are hard (stony), largely composed of calcium carbonate, and the tops have large, fleshy candy-cane striped polyps. The soft flesh contains symbiotic zooxanthellae and also feeding polyps that will capture prey.

Table of contents

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Quick facts

• Scientific Name: Caulastrea furcata
• Common Names: Candy cane coral, Trumpet coral, Bullseye coral, occasionally (and confusingly) “torch coral” at some stores
• Natural location: Generally sheltered, shallow-water, sandy substrate (Borneman 2001)
• Suitable Tank Size: Nano to large reef would be appropriate
• Aggression Level: Peaceful
• Compatibility: Extremely compatible with other Euphyllia species (torch, frogspawn, etc.), but always monitor for accidental contact or allelopathy
• Care Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low-to-moderate
• Flow: Low-to-moderate
• Feeding recommended: Yes, target feeding of small, meaty zoo-plankton-like foods when feeding polyps are extended
• Calcium supplementation: Yes, maintain calcium > 400 ppm

Note on names: Common names can be confusing. “Trumpet coral” and “bullseye coral” are also used for this species, and some stores may even label it as “torch coral,” which is a different genus entirely. Always confirm the scientific name when purchasing.

Candy Cane Coral Care

The candy cane coral is a hardy, relatively easy coral to care for. They prefer low-to-moderate water flow as well as low-to-moderate light intensity, and tend to grow best, like most coral species, when routinely fed. A bit more about that soon.

Candy Cane coral placement

The best placement for a candy cane coral is in a location that gets low-to-moderate water flow and low-to-moderate intensity lighting. Intense light or flow could cause bleaching or tissue damage.

Understanding why placement matters can help you adapt care as your tank layout or equipment changes:

• Water flow: Candy cane corals extend their fleshy polyps for feeding and respiration. Too much flow can cause the polyps to retract, leading to reduced feeding efficiency and possible tissue damage. Too little flow, on the other hand, may allow detritus to settle on the coral, increasing the risk of infection or tissue recession.
• Light intensity: These corals contain symbiotic zooxanthellae that provide energy via photosynthesis, but excessive light can cause bleaching (loss of zooxanthellae or pigments), while insufficient light may result in poor coloration or slow growth. Low-to-moderate light is ideal for maintaining healthy coloration and growth without risking stress.
• Substrate vs. rockwork: Placing candy cane coral on the sandy substrate is common and mimics its natural habitat, but there are trade-offs. The substrate offers stability and moderate light, but the coral can be buried by sand if disturbed by fish or strong flow. On rockwork, the coral is less likely to be buried and may receive better flow, but it could be less stable and more exposed to accidental knocks during maintenance.
• Proximity to other corals: While candy cane corals are peaceful and have short sweeper tentacles, close placement to other corals—even peaceful ones—can still pose risks. Over time, growth may lead to accidental contact, and some corals release chemicals (allelopathy) that can stress neighbors. Always leave enough space for growth and consider the potential for future contact.
• Tank layout and equipment: The spread of your lighting and the placement of wavemakers or powerheads can create areas of higher or lower intensity. Adjust placement based on your unique aquascape, and monitor the coral for signs of stress after any equipment changes or rearrangements.

This LPS coral generally does best when placed lower down in the aquarium, placed on the sandy substrate, if you have one. They require medium lighting or lower, so they are best placed outside of the white-hot intense lighting, on the outer rim of the lighting. The placement, and relative lighting in the tank at that spot, should also not dramatically impact their coloration like it does with some other stony corals.

One final thing to keep in mind is that you don’t want to be constantly moving your corals around. The advice given here about gradually moving your coral to the perfect location is intended to apply when first introducing the coral to your system. It is typically best to let a “happy” coral be. Moving them around too much can create additional stress.

Feeding

Candy cane corals, like most LPS corals, benefit from supplemental feeding in addition to the energy they receive from their symbiotic zooxanthellae. While photosynthesis provides much of their basic energy needs, direct feeding supplies essential nutrients and energy that support faster growth, tissue repair, and recovery from stress.

• Recognizing feeding response: When the coral is ready to feed, it extends its feeding tentacles—usually after lights out or when food is detected in the water. Healthy extension of these tentacles is a good sign; if you never see them, it may indicate stress or suboptimal conditions.
• Feeding methods: Target feeding (using a pipette or turkey baster to deliver food directly to the polyps) is efficient and minimizes waste, while broadcast feeding (adding food to the whole tank) is less precise and can increase nutrient pollution. Target feeding is generally preferred for candy cane corals, especially in mixed tanks with fish that may steal food.
• Timing: Feed when tentacles are extended, often after lights go out or by gently wafting food near the coral to stimulate a feeding response. Observe the coral’s behavior and adjust timing as needed.
• Frequency: Feeding a few times a week is usually sufficient. Overfeeding can lead to nutrient spikes, algae growth, and bacterial blooms, while underfeeding may result in stunted growth or tissue recession.
• Water quality considerations: Uneaten food can degrade water quality. Remove excess food after feeding and monitor nutrient levels, especially in smaller tanks.

The challenge with feeding LPS corals like the candy cane is getting enough food to the coral if you have boisterous fish like clownfish or tangs (at least that’s how it goes in my tank, where the fish routinely steal foods from the corals). If you don’t see the feeding tentacles extended, it is worth checking out the tank after dark to see if the coral opens up then, or if the tentacles can be coaxed out by feeding. If you literally never see the feeding tentacles, this may be a sign of stress.

Close up of Candy cane coral feeding polyps. Image by La.kien

Preferred water parameters

The standard water parameter needs apply to caring for this species as well. That means:

• Temperature: 73-84°F, +/- a degree or two
• pH: ~8.1-8.4
• Hardness (Alkalinity): 8-12 dKH
• Specific gravity: 1.025
• Ammonia, nitrites, nitrates: 0 ppm
• Calcium: 400 ppm

Check out this article for more information about the most important reef aquarium water parameters.

Why these parameters matter:

• Calcium, alkalinity, and pH are critical for coral skeletal growth. Calcium and carbonate ions (from alkalinity) combine to form the calcium carbonate skeleton. If calcium or alkalinity is too low, skeletal growth slows and tissue may recede. Low pH can further inhibit calcification and stress the coral.
• Symptoms of imbalance: Low calcium typically results in slow or halted growth; low alkalinity can cause tissue loss or poor polyp extension; unstable or low pH can cause general stress and poor coloration.
• Prioritizing corrections: Always address ammonia and nitrite first, as these are toxic even at low levels. Next, ensure calcium and alkalinity are within range, then fine-tune pH. Stability is often more important than chasing exact numbers—avoid rapid swings.

Calcium is an important nutrient for this coral species since it is a main component of the calcium carbonate skeleton. Insufficient pH, hardness, and calcium may spell trouble for this coral long term.

How they get their stripes

Coloration in corals can be a bit tricky to nail down. You see the coral at your local fish store under the actinic lights and think…this thing is going to look awesome in my tank…only to find out later that it looks nothing like that in your own tank. Well, the reason for that is that coral coloration is very much dependent on the lighting above the tank. To maintain the namesake candy cane stripes on your candy cane coral colony, you will need to keep it happy and healthy.

The biological basis of coral coloration: The stripes and colors in candy cane corals are produced by a combination of pigments (such as fluorescent proteins) in the coral tissue and the density/type of symbiotic zooxanthellae living within the coral. Lighting spectrum and intensity influence how these pigments appear to our eyes. Healthy corals express vibrant coloration, while stress (from poor water quality, insufficient or excessive light, or disease) can cause fading or loss of stripes.

If you notice your candy cane coral is losing its stripes, that may be a sign that your water parameters are unhealthy or that the coral is getting insufficient light (Borneman 2001).

• Normal color variation: Some color shifts are normal when moving corals between tanks with different lighting spectrums or intensities.
• Warning signs: Fading, bleaching (turning white), or rapid color loss are signs of stress and should prompt a review of water quality, lighting, and feeding.
• Maintaining healthy coloration: Keep water parameters stable, provide appropriate lighting, and ensure regular feeding for best results.

Green candy cane or trumpet coral with white feeding polyps extended

Troubleshooting

Figuring out exactly what the problem is with your candy cane coral care and what is causing your coral stress is part art, part science, and unfortunately is also sometimes a mystery. My advice is to start with what is known about the most recent conditions the animal was in, what is known about the preferred conditions, and what we can be known about the current conditions in your aquarium–and work backward to rule some things out.

A stepwise approach to diagnosing candy cane coral problems:

1. Check water parameters: Test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, calcium, alkalinity, pH, and temperature. Address any out-of-range values immediately.
2. Review recent changes: Consider any recent moves, equipment changes, new livestock additions, or maintenance activities that could have stressed the coral.
3. Inspect for physical damage: Look for torn tissue, exposed skeleton, or signs of accidental contact with other corals or equipment.
4. Observe feeding response: Are the feeding tentacles extending? Has feeding behavior changed?
5. Keep a log: Maintaining a journal of tank changes and observations can help identify patterns and troubleshoot recurring issues.

Distinguishing between common problems:

• Bleaching (turning white): Usually a response to excessive light, sudden changes in lighting, or severe stress. Polyps lose color but tissue remains intact. Try reducing light intensity or moving the coral to a shadier spot.
• Brown jelly disease: A rapid, often fatal infection that turns polyps to mush, producing a foul-smelling, brownish slime. Often follows physical injury or tissue damage. Remove affected tissue promptly and increase flow to prevent spread.
• Starvation: Manifests as slow tissue recession, poor polyp extension, and failure to grow. Usually due to insufficient feeding or poor water quality. Increase feeding frequency and check parameters.

Common beginner mistakes:

• Moving the coral too often, causing repeated stress
• Placing the coral in direct, intense light or flow
• Neglecting supplemental feeding
• Poor acclimation to new tank conditions
• Allowing detritus to accumulate on or around the coral

As mentioned at the top of the troubleshooting section, figuring out what caused the problem is a bit like solving a mystery, by reviewing the notes in your Reef Journal, testing the water, checking the parameters, and ruling things out. High nutrients, physical damage from handling, infections and/or starvation, and stress are potential culprits.

How to frag

A candy cane coral colony is also an excellent coral for learning how to frag corals. Since the large fleshy polyps of the candy cane coral sit on top of a long, thin, branched coral skeleton, it is fairly straightforward to propagate this coral species by snapping one of the branches.

Best practices for fragging candy cane coral:

• Select healthy branches: Choose branches with fully extended, undamaged polyps and no signs of tissue recession or disease. Avoid branches with exposed skeleton or brown jelly.
• Use clean, sharp tools: Coral or bone cutters (which look like large stainless steel wire cutters) or a Dremel-type rotary tool are ideal. Sterilize tools before use to minimize infection risk.
• Cut between polyps: Make the cut at the base of a branch, well below the fleshy polyp, to avoid damaging living tissue. Avoid cutting through polyps themselves.
• Minimize handling: Handle frags gently and avoid touching the soft tissue.

Post-frag care:

• Place frags in an area of low-to-moderate flow and lighting, similar to the mother colony.
• Monitor for signs of infection (brown jelly, tissue recession) and remove affected frags if necessary.
• Wait several days before resuming feeding to allow the cut to heal.
• Successful healing is indicated by tissue growth over the cut end and normal polyp extension. Signs of trouble include continued tissue loss, brown jelly, or failure to inflate.

The individual branches are a marvel—in that this living animal created a stone-like skeleton. At the same time, my experience with branching LPS corals is that the individual branches are also lightweight and brittle and can be fragged relatively easily with coral or bone cutters, which are a specialized tool that looks like large stainless steel wire cutters, or a Dremel-type rotary tool.

Where to go next

My favorite analog, dead tree book about corals is the book Aquarium Corals, by Eric Borneman. Although some of this book reads a bit like a textbook, I find it to be a valuable, comprehensive source of information about aquarium corals.

Check out this video with care tips:

Other articles of interest

You may also find some of these other coral care articles interesting and useful:

Learn about these other great LPS corals:

• Elegance coral
• Frogspawn coral
• Hammer coral

Dive into the world of SPS corals with the Birdsnest coral.

Or start with a list of saltwater fish to add to your tank to keep in your reef aquarium.

References:

Here are a few references that were used to support some of the information in this article. For more books like this, check out this article.

• Borneman, Eric H. Aquarium Corals. Microcosm Ltd; 1st Printing Edition (March 1, 2001)
• Ulrich III, Albert B. How to Frag Corals: Step-by-step guide to coral propagation and filling your frag tank with thriving polyps. www.SaltwaterAquariumBlog.com (January 20, 2015).
• Ulrich III, Albert B. The New Saltwater Aquarium Guide. www.SaltwaterAquariumBlog.com (April 8, 2014)